Meyvn fires up the oven at Lake & Bryant

Laurel Elm and Adam Eaton at Meyvn, now open in the former Tinto Kitchen space.
Laurel Elm and Adam Eaton at Meyvn, now open in the former Tinto Kitchen space.

Meyvn operates as a bright bagel shop by day and dim Mediterranean café by night.

The team moved a bus station and cut a hole in the wall to install a crucial 10,000-pound wood-fired oven, all the while on the phone with two different structural engineers. The oven burns white oak that adds flavor and texture to the bagels and cooks chicken and lamb skewers.

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The team behind St. Paul’s Saint Dinette — Laurel Elm, Adam Eaton and Tim Niver — tripled the size of the kitchen and added a retractable window to the southside bar, so the bartender can serve patrons on the patio outside.

The wine list includes selections from Israel. Featured cocktails include the Bloody Merriam (with dill aquavit, harissa and clamato) and the Żubrówka Ya’ll, which is Meyvn’s take on the vodka tonic with clove and lemon.

So far the restaurant is hosting kid outings, business meetings and date nights. On a day with lots of leftover bagels, staff bagged them up and brought them to 14 local shops.

Meyvn 4Eaton explained that the Montreal bagels are a bit sweeter, featuring a chewy inside and crunchy outside that’s crispy and flaky. The wood fire gives them a bit of char and more flavor — the sesame bagel is like eating tahini, he said.

The menu also features hot pastrami sandwiches, latkes, hummus with wood-fired pita, crudo, matzo ball soup and chopped salad with seasonal vegetables, chickpeas and feta.

Elm said the name Meyvn embodies the perfect connotation of an expert or connoisseur, and the spelling evokes the Jewish heritage reflected in the food.

“We’re committed to doing the best we can for everyone we take care of,” she said.

Tim Niver, Laurel Elm and Adam Eaton (l to r) at Meyvn’s patio, where a window opens to the bar inside.
Tim Niver, Laurel Elm and Adam Eaton (l to r) at Meyvn’s patio, where a window opens to the bar inside.

Meyvn is open at 901 W. Lake St from 7 a.m.-10 p.m. Monday through Saturday and 7 a.m.-9 p.m. Sunday.

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